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One was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian spice mix podi – a coarse mix of searingly hot, coarsely crushed spices, which you mix with a little oil and use as a dip for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be generous to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an extraordinarily good marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Gather six to eight skewers made of metal or wood (if made of wood, soak them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep a quick 10 minutes
Cook half an hour
Serves a couple

14 ounces waxy potatoes, chopped into four-centimeter chunks
8 ounces paneer, diced into 0.8-inch cubes
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
½ tsp fennel seeds
One tsp cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp chilli flakes
1½ teaspoon flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 cloves of garlic, skinned and shredded
Two and a half centimeters piece fresh ginger, skinned and shredded
about 3 tablespoons neutral oil
1 red onion, prepared and divided into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lime
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, minced
½ tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then remove the water and let them dry from steam for a minute. At the same time, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for a short while, then remove water and dry gently.

Pour the spice seeds into a mortar or spice grinder, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then mash or process to a coarse mixture.

Place in a large mixing bowl with the grated garlic and ginger, add the oil, then carefully mix in the cubed paneer, cooked potatoes and red onions to coat. Arrange the paneer, potatoes and onions on to the prepared skewers, then transfer to a baking sheet and reserve for later – if you like, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Stir all the ingredients for the dressing in a mixing bowl. Preheat the broiler to its top temperature, then grill the skewers for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are starting to char. (This may take a variable duration depending on the intensity of your oven, so keep an eye on them, especially when cooking the first side.)

Offer the grilled sticks immediately, sprinkled with a little more flaky salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.